Loya at Taj Palace, New Delhi A Celebration of the North, Reimagined

The context of Loya is inseparable from its iconic home. Since opening its doors in 1983, Taj Palace has maintained its status as the only ‘palace’ hotel in the National Capital, serving as a beacon of unmatched luxury. The Taj brand, with its roots tracing back to the iconic Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai in 1903, is synonymous with the very best of Indian hospitality its hallmark “Tajness” a blend of warmth, intuition, and sensitivity.

It is within this legacy of excellence that Loya finds its stage, bringing to life a specific culinary narrative that honours the traditions of old, but repackages them into gourmet dishes for today. The presentation, the effort that has so clearly and painstakingly gone into getting each detail just right, each utensil authentic and reminiscent of a simpler time, are just a few of the reasons why we chose to review this modern classic!

 

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Upon entering, you’re immediately enveloped in a rich and authentic tapestry. The décor marries rusticity with understated luxury: raw stone walls, warm wood textures, burnished copper accents, and low, golden lighting, candle lights on tables all lend a unique intimacy to this fine dining destination. The ambience is alive with movement and sound upbeat regional melodies mingle with the soft murmur of conversations, laughter, and the gentle rush of water from the Bar, whose cascading stream behind a gleaming display of bottles transforms the space into a theatre of elegance.

Presiding over this experience is Mr. Gaggan Sikka, whose respect for North Indian food, traditions and ingredients, is evident in each plate. The menu at Loya is a result of discovery & curation particularly the chaat-style appetizers, arguably the most elaborate selection conceived in a luxe, fine-dining concept.
Our experience begins with the Kachori Chaat, a miniature marvel: crisp, golden kachoris filled with spiced arhar and moong dal, topped with tangy anardana and saunth chutney. Each bite is an intricate interplay of textures and flavours crunchy, soft, sweet, and tart a prelude that primes the palate for the courses to follow. The Bhunnu Murgh, tender chicken slow-cooked in a rich masala, is served with warm khamiri roti, allowing the soft bread to soak up the deep, spiced aromas. Its smoky undertones, subtle yet persistent, speak of Chef Sandeep’s expertise with traditional cooking techniques.

The Timbri Jhingra is a masterclass in contrast and balance: succulent prawns marinated in shrub seed, char-grilled to an intensely smoky finish, paired with a pahadi bhang jeera chutney that adds earthy, herbal complexity. Every bite is a revelation the fire, the smoke, the freshness of the chutney a perfect union of regional authenticity and fine-dining precision.

The Chapli Kebab is flat, crisp-edged, and explosively spiced with coriander, pomegranate, and chilli, accompanied by flaky paratha and a cooling cucumber-tomato slaw. Then arrives the crowning glory: Ghosht ki Lazeez Pasliyan, lamb ribs so tender they melt at the touch of a fork, glazed in a rich, spiced reduction. This specialty dish epitomises indulgence and care, each bite a lesson in slow cooking and culinary patience.

Interspersed throughout the main courses are moments of subtle elegance and palate-cleansing finesse. The Arhar and Moong Dal is creamy, subtly spiced, and perfumed with ghee a soulful interlude that evokes home kitchens across Northern India. The Mustard Ori Raita provides a counterpoint: tangy, herbaceous, and delicately sharp, its mustard seeds cutting through richness without overwhelming the senses. Together, they establish rhythm and balance in the meal, ensuring every bite is layered with intention.

The breads themselves are integral to the storytelling. The Khamiri Roti, leavened and slightly tangy, complements the gravies with gentle restraint. The Missi Roti, nutty and fragrant with gram flour and spices, adds texture and earthiness. The Amritsari Choor Choor Roti ghee-soaked, flaky, and irresistible provides moments of indulgent pleasure, the shards perfect for scooping up masalas or simply enjoyed on their own. Desserts at Loya continue this narrative of nostalgia elevated to artistry. The Jalebi gleams golden in saffron syrup, sometimes paired with a trio of flavoured milks for subtle variation. The Kulfi Pops are a youthful and joyous take on this traditional dessert: dense, nutty, and creamy, a handheld tribute to tradition.

The Faluda layers Rose Rabri in a chocolate dome, chia seeds, vermicelli, and a thinck disc of kulfi,a fitting finale to the meal. Cocktails at Loya are theatre in glass form. The Strawberry, a fruity and sweet reinterpretation of the Aperol Spritz, sparkles with effervescence and bright, sunny notes. The Whiskey Paan takes the whiskey sour to another plane infused with paan and finished with a swirl of smoky whiskey, aromatic and herbaceous.

The Mogra, heady and spirit-forward, is crowned with an edible jasmine flower, its fragrance as intoxicating as the drink itself. At Loya, nothing is incidental. Every sound, sight, aroma, and taste is intentional, every plate a testament to regional authenticity elevated through precision, artistry, and care. Chef Sandeep’s genius lies in this balance he neither distorts tradition nor panders to modernity; he elevates the familiar into the extraordinary.

In a city constantly chasing the new, Loya stands apart by remembering by transforming heritage into luxury, memory into art, and food into storytelling.